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A little snow blower maintenance in November saves you from pulling the cord 40 times at 6 a.m. with 8 inches of snow in the driveway. Most snow blowers that won’t start in December have the same problem: old gas sitting in the tank since last March.
This guide covers the 8 steps to get your snow blower ready, the parts to keep on hand, and the safety rules that keep your fingers attached.
WHAT’S IN THIS GUIDE
When to Do Snow Blower Maintenance
Do it now, before the first snow is in the forecast. If a belt is cracked or the engine won’t start, you’ll have time to get parts or get it to a shop before the rush. Pick a dry afternoon and work outside or in the garage with the door open.
Before you start, grab your owner’s manual. Oil type, belt sizes, and shear pin part numbers are different on every model. If you lost the manual, most manufacturers have them online if you search the model number on the machine’s label.
Snow Blower Maintenance in 8 Steps
Step 1: Drain the old gas and fill up with fresh fuel
Old gas is one of the most common reasons a snow blower won’t start, which is why it’s the first step in snow blower maintenance. Briggs & Stratton, which makes the engines in many snow blowers, says that if there’s fuel left over from last season, drain it completely and fill the tank with fresh, clean fuel. Source: Briggs & Stratton — How to Prepare Your Snow Blower for Winter
Briggs also recommends adding a fuel stabilizer so the gas doesn’t break down over the season. The easiest way is to add it to your gas can at the pump, so every tank you pour in is already treated.
Step 2: Change the oil
If you didn’t change the oil at the end of last season, do it now. Briggs says draining the old oil keeps dirt and contaminants from reaching the engine, and it recommends a winter-grade oil like 5W-30. Check your manual for the right type and amount for your model. Don’t just grab the SAE 30 you use in your lawn mower. Single-grade summer oil is meant for warm weather.
An oil extractor pump pulls the old oil out through the dipstick tube, which is a lot easier than tipping a heavy snow blower on its side.
Step 3: Check the spark plug
Pull the spark plug and look at it. Briggs says to replace it if it’s worn, damaged, or looks corroded, black or rusty. If it just has some carbon buildup, clean it with a wire brush and put it back. A new plug is only a few dollars.
Step 4: Inspect the belts
On a two-stage snow blower, one belt drives the wheels and another drives the auger. Briggs says to check both for cracks or fraying and replace them if you see wear. A belt that snaps mid-storm leaves you with a machine that runs but doesn’t throw snow. The belt cover usually comes off with a couple of screws.
Step 5: Check the shear pins and buy spares
Shear pins hold the auger to its shaft. They’re designed to break if you hit something hard, like a frozen newspaper or a chunk of ice from the end of the driveway, so the engine and gearbox don’t get damaged instead. Briggs says to inspect them and keep a few spares on hand.
Buy shear pins that match your model number. A generic bolt from the hardware store is stronger than a real shear pin, which means it won’t break when it’s supposed to, and something more expensive will. Tape a couple of spare shear pins and the right wrench to the handle so you’re never stuck in the middle of a storm.
Step 6: Make sure the auger turns freely and lube it
With the engine off and the spark plug wire disconnected, check that the auger turns freely and nothing is caught in it. Briggs recommends lubricating the drive gears, cables, and control levers, and greasing the auger shaft at least once a season, following your owner’s manual. A spray of white lithium grease on the cables and moving parts keeps them working in the cold.
Step 7: Adjust the skid shoes and scraper bar
The skid shoes are the two plates on the sides of the housing that set how high it rides. Briggs says to set them for your surface, especially on a gravel driveway, so the auger doesn’t pick up rocks and throw them. On concrete or asphalt, you can set them lower. Briggs also says to keep the scraper bar close to the ground so it clears snow well, without letting it scrape the surface.
Step 8: Test start it outside
Start it outside, not in a closed garage. Gas engines make carbon monoxide, and it can build up fast in an enclosed space. Let it run for a few minutes, engage the auger and the drive, and make sure everything works. If it won’t start after fresh gas and a new plug, the carburetor may be gummed up from old fuel. That’s a good time to call a small engine shop, before every snow blower in town shows up at once.
If your garage is attached to the house, make sure you have a working carbon monoxide detector inside. Here’s where to put carbon monoxide detectors.
Snow Blower Safety Rules
Snow blowers are one of the most dangerous tools most homeowners own. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission’s rules:
- Never use your hands to clear a clog. CPSC says to stop the engine and use a long stick or push stick to clear wet snow and debris. Most snow blowers come with a clearing tool clipped to the housing. Use it.
- Add fuel outdoors before you start. CPSC says not to add gas to a running or hot engine.
- Keep the gas can capped and store gas outside the house, away from anything that could ignite it.
- With an electric snow blower, always know where the cord is.
Source: U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission — CPSC Warns of Hazards with Snow Throwers
Wait until everything has completely stopped moving, then use the tool. Fingers get hurt when people reach in “just for a second.” A few more habits help too. Pick up doormats, extension cords, and kids’ toys before the snow gets deep, keep kids and pets away from the chute, and don’t wear a loose scarf near the machine.
After you clear the snow, a thin layer of ice melt keeps the driveway from refreezing. Our ice melt calculator tells you how much you actually need, and our winter home maintenance checklist covers the rest of your winter prep.
Need somewhere to keep it? Here’s how to clear enough room to park your car in the garage and still have space for the snow blower.
Frequently Asked Questions About Snow Blower Maintenance
Why won’t my snow blower start?
The most common reason is old gas left in the tank since last season. Drain it, fill it with fresh fuel, and check the spark plug. If it still won’t start, the carburetor may be gummed up and need cleaning.
What oil does a snow blower use?
Most use a winter-grade oil like 5W-30, but check your owner’s manual. Don’t just use the SAE 30 from your lawn mower, which is meant for warm weather.
What are shear pins on a snow blower?
Shear pins hold the auger to its shaft and are designed to break if the auger hits something hard. That protects the engine and gearbox. Always replace them with shear pins made for your model, not regular bolts.
Should I leave gas in my snow blower?
During the season, yes, as long as it’s fresh and has a fuel stabilizer in it. At the end of the season, either run it dry or fill it with stabilized fuel before storing it, following your owner’s manual.
How often does a snow blower need maintenance?
Do a full check every fall before the first snow. Check the oil and shear pins a few times during the season, and grease the auger shaft at least once a season.
How do I unclog a snow blower safely?
Turn off the engine, wait for everything to stop moving, and use the clearing tool or a broom handle. Never use your hands, even with the engine off.
Done with the snow blower? Your lawn mower needs the opposite treatment. Here’s how to winterize a lawn mower.