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The time to protect shrubs in winter is in late fall, before the ground freezes. Most winter damage doesn’t come from the cold itself. It comes from drying wind, road salt, heavy snow, and hungry rabbits, and by the time you see brown leaves or chewed bark in March, it’s too late to stop it.
This guide covers the 4 kinds of winter damage, the 7 steps to protect shrubs in winter, what to do after a snow or ice storm, and how to check your shrubs for damage in spring.
WHAT’S IN THIS GUIDE
What Damages Shrubs in Winter
Shrubs face 4 main threats over the winter. Knowing which one you’re up against tells you which steps matter most for your yard.
Winter burn. This is the big one for evergreens. Purdue Extension explains that winter burn happens when plants lose moisture faster than they can replace it, which happens when the ground is frozen and the wind is strong. Leaves turn beige or brown and curl at the edges, or turn red or purple. Purdue notes that broadleaf evergreens like rhododendron, holly, and mahonia are the most likely to get it. Source: Purdue Extension — Dealing with Winter Damage of Trees and Shrubs
Iowa State University Extension adds boxwoods, arborvitae, and yews to that list, and says pines, spruces, and firs are at risk for several years after they’re planted. Source: Iowa State University Extension — Protecting Trees and Shrubs in Winter
Salt. Salt spray from the road and salty slush from the driveway dry out leaves and build up in the soil. Purdue notes the damage often doesn’t show up for months. Source: Purdue Extension — Deicing Salts Helpful for People but Not Landscape Plants
Snow and ice. Heavy, wet snow and ice can bend and break branches, especially on upright shrubs like arborvitae.
Rabbits. When snow covers everything else they’d normally eat, rabbits chew the bark and stems of shrubs, and young shrubs take the worst of it.
How to Protect Shrubs in Winter in 7 Steps
Step 1: Water deeply until the ground freezes
This is the most important step to protect shrubs in winter, and it’s free. Iowa State says to deeply water evergreens during dry spells in fall and keep watering regularly until the ground freezes. It notes that watering is especially important for evergreens planted in the last 2 or 3 years. A shrub that goes into winter with moist roots has a much better chance of making it to spring without winter burn.
Water slowly at the base so it soaks in instead of running off. If you already shut off and drained your outdoor spigots, pick a mild afternoon, hook up a hose for an hour, and drain it again when you’re done. See our guide on how to winterize a sprinkler system if you still need to blow out your lines.
Step 2: Add a layer of mulch
Mulch keeps the soil from freezing and thawing over and over, and it holds in the moisture from Step 1. University of Illinois Extension recommends a layer 2 to 4 inches deep and says to keep mulch at least 4 inches away from the trunk. Piling it against the stems softens the bark and invites insects and disease. Source: University of Illinois Extension — Proper Mulching Techniques
Shredded leaves work well if you have them. See our guide on fall yard cleanup for what to do with the rest of them.
Step 3: Put up a burlap screen on windy sides
Drying wind is what causes winter burn, so blocking it is one of the best ways to protect shrubs in winter. Purdue recommends shielding broadleaf evergreens from wind, especially on the north and west sides of the house. Iowa State says to build a simple screen out of wooden posts and burlap and set it at least 6 inches away from the foliage.
Here’s the part most people get wrong. Iowa State says not to wrap burlap around the plant like a blanket. A screen blocks the wind and still lets air and light reach the plant. And skip plastic entirely, since it traps heat and moisture against the leaves.
Step 4: Consider an anti-desiccant spray
An anti-desiccant spray puts a thin, waxy coating on evergreen leaves to slow down how much water they lose. Iowa State says it “may also be helpful” for evergreens that are prone to winter burn. It’s not a substitute for watering, but it’s an extra layer of protection for boxwoods, rhododendrons, and other shrubs that burned last winter. Follow the label for timing, since most need to go on during a mild, dry day above freezing.
Step 5: Tie up upright evergreens
Arborvitae and other upright evergreens with several stems can split open under heavy snow. Iowa State recommends wrapping them loosely with twine or rope in fall to hold the stems together, then removing it in spring. Start at the bottom and spiral up, snug enough to keep the stems together but not so tight that it cuts into the branches.
Step 6: Keep salt away from your shrubs
Salt damage is easy to prevent if you think about where your snow goes. Iowa State’s tips:
- Don’t pile salty snow and ice from the driveway or sidewalk around trees and shrubs.
- Remove as much snow and ice as you can before using salt, and use only enough to loosen the ice.
- Mix salt with sand or kitty litter.
- Redirect winter runoff away from your plants if you can.
Purdue says sodium-based salts are the most likely to hurt plants and recommends calcium chloride or CMA when possible. Our guide to the best ice melt for concrete, pets, and plants compares all 6 types, and our ice melt calculator shows how little you actually need. Using less is the best way to protect shrubs in winter from salt.
Step 7: Fence out rabbits
Iowa State says a fence of chicken wire or hardware cloth 24 to 36 inches tall is enough in most cases. Pin it to the ground with U-shaped landscape staples so rabbits can’t dig under it. After a heavy snow, check that they can’t just walk over the top of it on the drifts. Iowa State also suggests removing brush piles where rabbits hide. For more on keeping animals out, see our guide on how to build a garden fence that keeps animals out.
What to Do After a Snow or Ice Storm
Snow and ice call for different approaches:
- Snow: Iowa State says to gently brush it off with a broom using an upward motion, so you don’t push the branches down and add more stress.
- Ice: Leave it alone. Purdue says not to shake limbs to remove ice or snow. Ice-coated branches are brittle and can snap. Let the ice melt on its own.
- Don’t throw heavy, wet snow onto shrubs when you shovel, and don’t dump snow on them when you rake the roof.
If a branch does break, have it removed and the stub pruned once the weather allows. Purdue says to be patient with branches that are bent but not broken. They often go back to their normal position on their own.
Young trees need some of the same protection, plus a few extra steps. Here’s our guide to winter tree care.
How to Check for Winter Damage in Spring
Don’t rush to cut anything. Purdue notes that some damaged twigs leaf out in spring and then die back in summer, so it can take a while to see what really made it. Here’s what to look for:
- Brown or curled leaf edges, or red or purple leaves on evergreens, which point to winter burn.
- Brown needle tips on pines and spruces, worse on the side facing the road, which can point to salt spray.
- Chewed bark near the ground, which points to rabbits.
Iowa State says to heavily water areas where salt built up as soon as the ground thaws in early spring. That flushes the salt down past the roots. If you’re not sure what you’re looking at, Purdue suggests taking a small sample to your county Purdue Extension office. Taking time to protect shrubs in winter is one task on our winter home maintenance checklist.
Frequently Asked Questions About Protecting Shrubs in Winter
When should I protect my shrubs for winter?
Late fall, before the ground freezes. Keep watering until the ground freezes, then put up burlap screens and rabbit fencing in November, before the first big snow.
What is winter burn?
Winter burn is when evergreens dry out because they lose water through their leaves while the ground is frozen and their roots can’t replace it. Leaves turn brown or curl, usually on the side that faces the wind or the sun.
Should I wrap my shrubs in burlap?
Use burlap as a screen, not a wrap. Iowa State says to set it at least 6 inches away from the foliage and not to wrap it around the plant like a blanket.
Can I use plastic to cover shrubs in winter?
No. Plastic traps heat and moisture against the leaves and can do more harm than good. Use burlap instead.
Should I water shrubs in winter?
Water them deeply in fall and keep watering until the ground freezes. Once it’s frozen, the roots can’t take up water anyway. If you get a long, dry stretch of mild weather when the ground thaws, a deep watering can help evergreens.
Will my shrubs recover from winter burn?
Often, yes, if the buds survived. Wait until late spring to see what leafs out before you prune, since some branches that look dead in March will push new growth.
Sources & Further Reading
- Source: Iowa State University Extension — Protecting Trees and Shrubs in Winter
- Source: Purdue Extension — Dealing with Winter Damage of Trees and Shrubs
- Source: Purdue Extension — Deicing Salts Helpful for People but Not Landscape Plants
- Source: University of Illinois Extension — Proper Mulching Techniques