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Taking an hour to winterize garden beds this fall is the easiest way to get a head start on next year’s garden. The bugs and diseases that wrecked your tomatoes this summer are planning to spend the winter in the dead vines you left behind, and bare soil left open all winter washes away and packs down.
This guide covers the 7 steps to winterize garden beds, what to leave standing for pollinators, and the one mistake that makes next year’s pest problems worse.
WHAT’S IN THIS GUIDE
Why It Pays to Winterize Garden Beds
Iowa State University Extension explains that many plant diseases spend the winter on infected plant debris left in the garden. Removing and destroying that debris in fall can lower how bad those diseases are next year, and it also gets rid of places where some insects spend the winter. Source: Iowa State University Extension — Should I Clean and Till My Vegetable Garden This Fall or Early Next Spring?
There’s a timing benefit too. Iowa State notes that a garden cleaned up and tilled in fall dries out and warms up faster in spring, so you can plant cool-season crops like peas, lettuce, and spinach earlier. Purdue Extension adds that fall work avoids the spring rush, when the soil is often too wet to work anyway. Source: Purdue Extension — Fall Garden Preparations for Next Spring
How to Winterize Garden Beds in 7 Steps
Step 1: Pull out spent plants after the first frost
Illinois Extension recommends removing fruit and vegetable plants after the first frost, and pulling cool-season crops as soon as they’re finished. It warns that leftover plant material “can harbor disease and insects that can doom next year’s crop.” Pull tomato and pepper plants roots and all, along with any fallen fruit, stakes wrapped in old vines, and weeds. Source: Illinois Extension — Fall Veggie Garden Clean-Up Can Yield Spring Rewards
Wear work gloves for this. Dead tomato vines and squash stems are scratchy, and weeds that went to seed are better pulled than hoed.
Step 2: Keep diseased plants out of your compost
This is the mistake that brings last year’s problems back. Illinois Extension says to compost plant material only if it isn’t diseased, since adding diseased plants can spread the disease to other parts of your yard. Send diseased plants out with your yard waste pickup instead. Chop healthy plants into smaller pieces before you add them to the pile so they break down faster.
If you had tomatoes with yellow, spotted leaves this summer, bag those vines. See our guide on why tomato leaves turn yellow to figure out what you were dealing with. New to composting? Here’s how to start a compost pile.
Step 3: Test your soil now, not in spring
Purdue Extension says fall is a great time to test your soil because it gives you plenty of time to get your results back and act on the recommendations before planting. Take small cores 6 to 8 inches deep from several spots in the bed and mix them together, so the sample represents the whole bed. A home soil test kit gives you a quick read on pH, or you can send a sample to a soil testing lab for a full report.
If your soil comes back acidic, fall is a good time to fix that. Our lawn lime calculator works for garden beds too.
Step 4: Add compost or other organic matter
Purdue says organic matter improves drainage and water-holding capacity and loosens heavy soils. Good choices include finished compost, dry tree leaves, grass clippings, and livestock manure. Purdue says not to use pet manure. Fall is a great time for this, since fresh material has all winter to break down before you plant.
Not sure how much to buy? Our compost calculator figures it out by bed size. If you have heavy clay soil, see our guide on how to improve clay soil.
Step 5: Work it in, unless your bed washes out
Purdue recommends working organic matter into the top 5 to 7 inches of soil with a rototiller or shovel. In a small bed, a garden fork does the job with less effort and less damage to the soil.
There’s one exception. Purdue says gardens that tend to wash out or blow away over the winter should wait until spring to be turned. On a slope or in a windy, open spot, spread the compost on top and leave it there. It still protects the soil and works its way in over winter.
Step 6: Plant a cover crop or cover the soil
Bare soil is what washes away, so covering it is a big part of how you winterize garden beds. Purdue says a cover crop improves soil health and reduces erosion in home gardens. Illinois Extension suggests clover or other legumes, planted soon after you clear the bed. A legume cover crop can improve soil structure, add nitrogen, and keep weeds down.
Timing matters. Purdue notes that most cover crops should go in well before late fall, so if it’s already November, it may be too late for this year. Instead, cover the bed with a few inches of shredded leaves. They protect the soil the same way, and they’ll be half broken down by spring. See our guide on mulching leaves for the easiest way to shred them.
If your cover crop makes it through the winter, Illinois Extension says to cut or mow it close to the ground when it starts to flower, then leave it on top as mulch for 2 to 4 weeks before you plant.
Step 7: Clean up your tools and hoses
Illinois Extension recommends cleaning, sharpening, and oiling your tools before you put them away, and disconnecting and draining your hoses so they don’t freeze and crack your outdoor spigots. It also suggests jotting down notes about what worked this year and where everything was planted, so you can rotate crops next spring. If you have an irrigation system on the beds, here’s how to winterize a sprinkler system.
What to Leave Standing for Pollinators
When you winterize garden beds, the goal is a clean vegetable garden, not a bare yard. Illinois Extension points out that many native bees, like leafcutter and mason bees, spend the winter in hollow plant stems, and butterflies and moths overwinter in leaves and on dry stems. Its advice is to leave some flower stems standing instead of cutting them to the ground, and to leave fallen leaves in your flower beds for insulation. Source: Illinois Extension — Consider Pollinators During Fall Garden Cleanup
A good rule: be tidy in the vegetable beds, where pests and diseases build up, and be messy in the flower beds. For more ideas, see our guide on how to attract pollinators to your garden.
Raised Beds vs. In-Ground Gardens
You winterize garden beds that are raised the same way, with two differences:
- Top them off. Soil in raised beds settles and breaks down every year, so fall is a good time to add a few inches of compost back. Our raised bed soil calculator tells you how much it takes to fill one.
- Skip the tiller. A garden fork or just a layer of compost on top is all a raised bed needs.
Building a new bed for spring? Fall is the time to do it, so it can settle over winter. Here’s how to build a raised garden bed.
Before you put a bed to sleep, consider planting it. Here’s how to plant garlic in fall for a harvest next summer.
Frequently Asked Questions About Winterizing Garden Beds
When should I winterize my garden beds?
After the first frost, once your warm-season plants are done. In central Indiana, that’s usually late October through November. Cool-season crops can come out as soon as they’re finished.
Should I pull out my plants or leave them in the garden over winter?
Pull vegetable plants out. Leftover plant debris is where many diseases and insects spend the winter. In flower beds, it’s fine to leave some stems standing for pollinators.
Can I put dead tomato plants in my compost?
Only if they were healthy. If your tomatoes had leaf spots, blight, or other disease, bag the vines and send them out with your yard waste.
What is a cover crop?
A cover crop is a plant you grow to protect and improve the soil instead of to eat. Clover and other legumes are popular in home gardens because they add nitrogen, improve the soil, and help keep weeds down.
Should I till my garden in the fall?
You can, and it helps the soil dry out and warm up faster in spring. The exception is a garden on a slope or in a windy spot. Wait until spring to turn those, so the soil doesn’t wash or blow away over winter.
Should I put mulch on my garden beds for winter?
Yes, if you’re not planting a cover crop. A few inches of shredded leaves or compost keeps the soil from washing away and gives it a head start on next year.
Sources & Further Reading
- Source: Iowa State University Extension — Should I Clean and Till My Vegetable Garden This Fall or Early Next Spring?
- Source: Purdue Extension — Fall Garden Preparations for Next Spring
- Source: Illinois Extension — Fall Veggie Garden Clean-Up Can Yield Spring Rewards
- Source: Illinois Extension — Consider Pollinators During Fall Garden Cleanup